Bezel setting design guide: full, half and wall thickness
A bezel setting surrounds the stone with a thin wall of metal. It is secure, low and smooth, which makes it popular for rings worn every day.
Full bezel
The metal goes all the way round the stone. It gives the most protection, but it covers more of the stone's edge.
Half bezel
The metal covers only part of the edge, often two opposite sides. It shows more of the stone and still holds it well.
Wall thickness
The wall must be thin enough to be pushed over the stone, and thick enough not to bend or crack. Common thicknesses are around 0.5 to 0.8 mm, but the right value depends on the metal and the setter, so check first.
Height and shape
- The wall should rise just above the stone's girdle.
- The inside needs a seat that matches the stone.
- Shapes with corners, such as emerald, need the wall corners built carefully.
In CAD
Model the bezel to the exact stone size, and leave a small allowance for setting. Render it to check how it looks from the side. Compare other styles in solitaire ring settings explained.
Frequently asked questions
Is a bezel setting better for active wearers?
It is often chosen for them, since the metal rim protects the stone's edge and sits low.
Does a bezel hide the stone?
It covers the edge, but the top of the stone remains visible. A half bezel shows more.
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